“What do you think of Thai diving so far?” Chris enquired as we waddled across the dive platform, dripping wet and keen to get out of our gear. “Hmm…” came my non-committal reply. As we de-kitted, we discussed the merits of our first dive in the Similan Islands. Diving at Koh Tachai, the most northerly […]
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Bokor Hill Station: Exploring Cambodia’s Historic Mountain Retreat
Driving on the wrong side of the road, our minibus flew up the mountain, careering around tight bends and overtaking everything in sight. We were heading for Bokor Hill Station, an abandoned holiday resort that was once a summer retreat for the kings of Cambodia. Though we never did figure out why there was such […]
Quinta Da Regaleira: Descending Into The Darkness
Passing through a stone door, we began our descent into the darkness. We joined the line, tramping down the steps as they spiralled deep into the Earth. Leaning out between the columns, we could see everyone below, mindlessly marching downwards and finally disappearing into the depths. Nobody seemed to be coming back up. “Keep moving”, […]
Going Below: Scuba Diving In Malta And Gozo
The limestone shimmered gold in the blazing sun, reflected by the mirrored surface of the water below. Beneath the waves was a different world: vertical walls encrusted with hard corals and clusters of yellow anemones like fields of tentacled flowers. Bearded fireworms wove their way to their next meal and passing schools of bream glittered […]
Goa Gajah And Yeh Pulu: Elephants, Demons And A Dreadful Boar
The tiny faces glared at us, wild eyes popping and teeth bared angrily. The message was clear: stay away. In the centre of the twisted mass was yet another face, much bigger than the rest. With eyebrows raised and mouth gaping wide it looked more surprised, staring at some unknown curiosity in the distance. We […]
Touring Vietnam’s DMZ: Tanks, Tunnels And Psychic Powers
The barren landscape stretched as far as the eye could see, pockmarked with crater holes and devoid of vegetation. Looking up from the photo our guide was holding, the modern day reality could not have been more different. There were trees and flowers here and the undergrowth was so dense we could barely see the […]
Ayutthaya Floating Market: Authentically Inauthentic
The crocodile stretched its jaws wide, wrapping its teeth around the brave man’s head. On another poster, a couple reclined on cushions alongside a fearsome looking tiger. Along with the animal shows and bizarre photo opportunities, we could have taken a ride on an elephant. The elephants were on hand, each waiting patiently with a […]
Florence Court And Castle Coole: Same Same But Different
A small pair of cannons sit on the front steps at Florence Court. The owner won them in a drunken bet and carefully positioned them to point at their previous home, Castle Coole. This was a deliberate insult to Earl Belmore, reminding him of the treasures he had lost every time he visited. Florence Court […]
Paying Our Respects At Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum
We marched briskly, in neatly regimented rows, down the path and into the plaza. The bleak expanse of grey paving slabs perfectly matched the surrounding buildings and the steely sky above. We were led by a member of the military honour guard, dressed in a pristine white ceremonial uniform. He made a sharp left turn […]
Cycling Around The Angkor Temples: Why You Need To Be Prepared
“If your bike is going to fall apart, it’s going to do it soon.” I joked cheerfully. We were just leaving Ta Nei, the tiniest, most overgrown and least touristy of the Angkor temples we visited. Cycling down a sandy dirt track, we were all too aware that we were 17km from our guesthouse in […]