Amanohashidate: Cross The Bridge To Heaven To Gain Wisdom

Partway up the hill we came across a small, grassy plateau. A row of people stood in silence, bent double with their heads between their legs. Coloured banners flapped in the breeze, each adorned with a cartoon-like character demonstrating the same inverted pose. We joined the line, turned our backs to the sea and assumed the position. The blood rushed to our heads as we took our time appreciating the view, a verdant column protruding up across the calm sea to the sky above. We began to understand why the pine-covered sandspit was called Amanohashidate, the bridge to heaven.

We continued along the dusty dirt track that wound up the side of the hill, distracted from the path by the black kites soaring overhead. A short time later, we arrived at Nariaiji temple and found it largely deserted.  Apparently most tourists don't venture beyond the Amanohashidate viewpoint. In the main hall, we met one of the temple's monks, shaven headed and clad in a simple robe. Keen to chat, he pointed out a wooden carving of a dragon above us. No matter where we went, the unnerving gaze of this all-seeing monster followed us around the room.

The monk invited us to shake the hand of a statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. Several rainbow-coloured strands of string connected the statue's delicate hand with larger ribbons hanging from the ceiling. Tug on the ribbons and you were effectively shaking hands with the statue. It was quite an honour given that the cabinet containing this dainty figure would be closed the following week and remain closed for the next 25 years.

We made our way downhill to the sandspit known as Amanohashidate. Stretching across the bay, it made a convenient and scenic short cut to Monju village on the other side. We walked through the forest on a carpet of pine needles, appreciating the tranquillity as the water lapped gently on both shores. Three kilometres and around 7000 pine trees later, we hadn't made it to heaven but we had reached the bridge at the other end. We watched the unusual rotating bridge in action as we waited to cross.  The operator pivoted the bridge a full 90 degrees to make way for a boat passing through.

Finally crossing the bridge, we spotted several ladies slowly circling a large stone ring atop a pillar. We followed suit. After three laps of Chie no wa Toro, the lantern of wisdom, we rested our heads in the centre of the ring, hoping for endowment with knowledge. Just to be sure, we also visited the adjacent temple of Chionji, dedicated to the Buddhist god of wisdom and intellect, Monju.

Although it's best known for the view over the sandspit, which must of course be appreciated from the correct position, there is more to Amanohashidate for those willing to take their time. Most of the attractions in Monju centre around the village's namesake, who is the god of wisdom. Although particularly popular with students studying for exams, we saw people of all ages eating wisdom cakes, circling the lantern and praying to Monju at the temple. So, did we end up any wiser? Perhaps wise enough not to say.